I ride a Blackbird and wanted something completely different - this is it! It didnt come with bark busters , which are a must , so that when you drop it you dont break the levers. If you had the bike loaded down and riding highway speed in 5th gear I think the bike might struggle maintaining speed trying to climb a long or steep hill.
If you are looking for a bike that is the perfect companion for exploring your local green lanes on, look no further than a Suzuki DRZ400 S. Although there were a few DRZ 400 models before the S (and a DR350 before the 400), the original one only had a kickstart and while the E did have an electric starter and was road legal, it isnt as refined as the later S and is more a legalised enduro than a proper dual purpose trail bike like the S. Why is this important? why "S" - soooo misleading! Keep this site operational and become a site supporter. Would I find myself in situations where I was going too fast for 4th gear but too slow to be in 5th gear? There is nothing to be feared when it comes to basic maintenance on a DRZ and if you are at all bothered, there are loads of how-to videos online when it comes to the basics. If this is inadvisable for another reason (please explain) what other options exist to decrease RPMs at high speeds? Unique Hits Gav. I have stock gearing on my SM the only mods are Yosh can, 3x3,and and rejetted. The DRZ is a fine bike and the additions I have made to mine make it a significantly better dual sport adventure bike for the type of riding I do.
Erik Marquez of Marquez Racing is a well-known DRZ guy that happens to live about an hour from my place. I bought a 41 to swap out the stock 44. A forum community dedicated to SuperMoto owners and rally enthusiasts. So after looking in 5th gear @ 7600 rpm I am traveling 93 MPH right? I bought my 2006 DRZ400SM with the following power modifications already done to it: I'm seeing ~6000-7000rpms at 55-60mph (my tachometer has some signficant delay so there's some uncertainty there, it's due for an upgrade).
If you never managed a rolling stoppie in your life you will on this puppy, trust me on that one. I plan on doing this exact same thing this winter.. Did you also do the fcr39 carb? The DRZ-400S is the all-rounder. var scJsHost = "https://"; In all weathers without a single problem. Id rather buy one done correctly then try to get this done myself. My bike has the ACT gears, Athena 4mm BB & Stroker 4mm crank.20Ltr Safari tank.Dirtbag panniers,screen ect. If you really want an S and are looking at road riding, adding firmer springs to the forks will remove a lot of the dive while swapping the shocks spring (or investing in an aftermarket unit) will make the back end far more supportive for not a great deal of outlay. Ive had this bike for 2 1/2 years now and an excellent choice as a starter bike- it is so forgiving! The fact it has an electric start is a major bonus for anyone looking at trail riding and so is its reliability. The only real point to own a gixer was trackdays which happens like 2 or 3 times a year. I've never had any serious, mysterious issues. If I get around to cams and carb, I'll likely go back to 38 in the rear. You will always feel in control of the Suzuki which seems desperate to do what you ask of it within its limits. Brakes are quite soft, but result in an easy ride. I think it's worth the effort to Change to Wide Ratio Gearing, and besides, I LOVE to Modify Stuff ! When riding in more difficult terrain you will often find yourself either running too high RPMs in 1st gear or too low RPMs in 2nd gear. If you're after a dirtbike-style city commuter but aren't planning to go anywhere near a trail, you could also consider a Yamaha WR250X. The one thing I did notice during the initial break-in miles was that the gap between 4th and 5th gears is pretty large. will doing the 3x3 mod jetting and full yosh make up for the lose of power on the bottom :hmmm: KPH/1.6093=MPH so the conversion is easy if you know how to use a calculator. The problem with running a 13 tooth front sprocket is that it is a smaller diameter than the stock 14 tooth and will wear the swing arm chain guide near the swingarm/frame pivot bearing quicker and may cut into the swingarm if its not kept an eye on. Doesn't rev like a 2 stroke though-despite what some people say Has a few design/reliabilty issues which need curing first but then its bullet proof Much better bike than my old KMX200 visit www.thumpertalk.com/forum for tips from other owners. Found this Gearing calculator, works really well. Doesn't like to cruise much above 60mph on stock gearing. Rich, I was not aware had done this write up, very nice..and thank you for the kind words. UPDATE: The best solution I came to for this is a 39T rear sprocket. Best point is it runs very smoothly, with vibration coming in around 65mph. I will address this concern in detail during my discussion of the big bore kit later on. Only niggles are that you can't fit an alarm/immobiliser & gets a little bit light on the front around top end speed. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts. Currently you have JavaScript disabled. As a result, at 140kg's, the dizzy is neither the most powerful nor the lightest of crossers. Having said that I struggled to get the bike to wheelie and am ready to try something more road orientated and better on the motorway- it does feel a bit unstable at high speed- and you end up forcing your weight into the bike to keep it stable. 22,000km on the clock so it's been around the block a bit. Much appreciated. The two complaints I have with the DRZ are buzziness at highway speeds (my hands go numb after about 30 minutes of riding at 70 mph) and wind.
Strengths: Looks funky, completely reliable, handles beautifuly, seriously cheap to run, excellent build quality (I mean it), good adjustable suspenion, breaks have good power and feel, unintimidating to ride but tons and tons of fun. Put standard can on, & saw previous owner had drilled 4 large holes in airbox. document.write("
From a real world usage, the changes I made transform the DRZ. I just changed to 14/50 and find it much better especially in tight single trail and climbing. Conversely, if you gear it low for the dirt then the engine will really be screaming (running high RPMs) at highway speeds. Have you tried a 38T rear sprocket? Or would I find situations, such as long uphill sections, where I didnt have enough power to stay in 5th gear and would have to downshift to 4th to make it to the top? This is a very reliable bike and while the build quality may not be that amazing, the fact the little Suzuki simply refuses to give up is what makes it special.
Thanks for everyone's comments. The stock DRZ S model tries to split the difference between the E and SM models by running a 15/44 sprocket combo, resulting in gearing that is simultaneously a bit too high for tough dirt riding and too low for sustained highway speeds. Just that way home on Aroads or M-ways is a real pain. 15/47 for longer outback trips.Has been clocked at 160 KPH with this gearing. Why they aren't 6-speed is beyond me. Tons of good stuff in there, including a gearing spreadsheet. But I was never able to decrease the buzz to a level I was completely comfortable with. Use Google Custom Search to search the entire GC site. During my ride in Mexico I rode some fairly steep terrain (pictured above) and never felt like I was in a situation where 1st gear was too low but 2nd gear was too high. I've had mine to 139kph before the rev limiter cut in with the 13 tooth front sprocket.
Always inspect all the bearings (headstock, wheel, swingarm) as these are often badly worn, check the wheel rims for dents, the spokes for broken or rusty items, the exhaust for dents and holes and most importantly the radiator for leaks. "They are really solid built bikes and well worth theirweight in gold.". no matter how many CCs its got or how much stroke you put in it. The suspension is also built with off-road in mind and that means a wallowy ride (the weight of a pillion makes the shock almost hit the end of its travel) and the single two-piston front caliper is pretty weak in its performance. DUCMANs Where have you found your sweet spots?
Ok, I've changed the gearing spreadsheet a bit, made it accept multiple speed boxes (4/5/6sp) and to be selectable between kph and mph for those challenged by 20th century measurement units. It took a while to get my foot position right as to not foul the stand. When riding off-road the transmissions narrow gear ratios mean that you can always find the right gear for the conditions you are riding in and your skill level.
I will never deal with those greedy bastards again . I decided to buy a DRZ, add the ACT wide ratio transmission and a big bore kit, and build the bike Suzuki should already be making. I think my current gearing is stock. Ideally, you want you gearing on an SM (for a lot of the street riders) to be such that the bike tops out at the HP peak, that is the fastest it will go based on the current state of the engine. Mine is 12 years old. With the new ACT wide ratio gears you are shifting into 5th about 60 mph and are able to run 80 mph at significantly lower RPMs and engine vibration. Where would you recommend ordering a 38T rear from? It has all the settings in the data base for the 400 E. I have a SM with a 150/60-17 rear tyre (2.733) Final reduction ratio. I've resently gone from a 14 to a 13 and don't particularly like it. When I first got my bike, the previous owner had installed a 38 tooth rear with the 15 still up front. :hmmm: With 15/41 in 5th your RPM is almost exactly 100 x your speed in MPH. I haven't heard of people changing just 2 teeth in the back, always up 3 or down 3. This reason, more than any other, kept the DRZ off my list of possible dual sport adventure bikes. The AFR chart suggests it needs a rejet, which I suspected of course. Is speedometer effected by sprocket and tire changes? Its not uncommon for a theoretical good idea to end up disappointing in reality after the build But alas, that just gives way for more building..lol The ergos are perfect for city commuting and the bike feels almost weightless. Carburettor model. Bad points.. that seat. I had to do a freeway transport for 30ks recently (too late gettting out of bed to make a meeting point via the back roads) and it wasn't pleasant but it was possible. See application chart for applicable models. Currently restricted to 33bhp so haven't bothered with any mods until that comes off next year. It reaaly is not. Company Number: LP003328 Registered Office: Academic House, 24-28 Oval Road, London, NW1 7DT. It should be the same for the SM as for the E as the primary drive ratio and gear ratios should be the same. Of course, thats just my opinion. This will add 2-3bhp all the way through the rev range, with much improved throttle response. With the bike upright, have a good look down the length of the bike from the rear to see if the bars are straight, check the levers havent been bent and then forced straight again and ensure all the electrics work as they can be a weak point. 2005 - 2022 If you accept the DRZ is a 60mph maximum bike you wont be disappointed. I do SFA tar work so I don't mind the lower gearing. Date: I've also ran 15/39 which is super smooth at 75mph, probably less than 7k rpm iirc. I've been riding sportbikes for 6 years, mainly gsx-r's, which were all mighty great bikes but not in the environment I was spending most of my time. It increases the max speed of each gear, without having to do any case-saver or chain guard grinding/modifications, and allows you to keep the stock chain (remove one more tooth to a 38T sprocket and you need to shorten your chain, probably to 109 or 108 links (unconfirmed, just my guess).
Excellent question.
(15-41 std. So my questions are: Out of the 2 sprockets on the drive-chain, the counter-sprocket is the front one directly driven by the motor, correct? So it was time for some drastic decisions. But not too much. Would i see a big improvement if i kept the stock carb and did not get the big bore? As you can see in the first chart above, if you are running 15/44 sprockets then with the ACT gears you are just shifting into 5th gear at about the same speed where you maxed out the stock DRZ in 5th gear. Dave. I want to be able to go 65-70mph relatively comfortably and not feel like I'm straining the shit out of the bike. Adjust calculated to actual Tire circumference. Driven USA MX Rear Sprocket 520 Suzuki DRZ400 & DRZ400SM (00-08), Shopping cart software by: Cynch Medical Device Repair Software. Will eventually go 14/49 when I find a decent bike shop workshop dont want too wear the swingarm guides. And if you had enough on the street just jump off the tarmac and make your way through that lawn or park. As an X/C it is brilliant: tarmac/off-road/tarmac/off-road is where this bike truely excelles. Gixer wouldnt be even rideable after this one. And you need to plan your petrol stops well when riding in the middle of nowhere! I don't know how, after this long, it is still developing 33bhp and 25lb-ft of torque, even taking into account the drop from manufacturer's stated at crank. However all of this is to be expected from an enduro bike and if you want more road performance, there is an alternative. Its an affordable option to a german dual sport. And the SM fulfils the task admirably. Have you used the wider gears on the stock engine? If I were to ever own a DRZ again, I would definitely make those two mods again. light, powerful, responsive, great ("X/C") suspension.
Help on: Final Drive Ratio graph (Bike independant). Here is a nice spreadsheet with the gear ratios entered. simply change the tire size to waht you use. How heavy are you?
The ACT gears lowered the RPMs at highway speed, which helped reduce the buzz. I did not use the wide ratio gears on a stock engine.
What can you say about this bike that the sales figures don't already tell you? Some are only applicable to fairly serious off-roaders. 75 is not very comfortable on my DRZ 400 E You need to be a member in order to leave a comment. Standard Dunlops are ok, but not great - I wouldnt buy them again. "statcounter.com/counter/counter.js'>"); Explains what the Gearing Commander can be used for, Help on: Select your bike from presets and load default data, Help on: Initial Loading of Gearing Data Explained, Help on: Change settings to reflect Current setup, Help on: Change settings to considered Custom setup, Help on: Enter data for a bike NOT in the presets, Help on: Save changed settings for future loading, Help on: Load previously saved personal settings, Help on: Report a gearing Error in the GC database, Help on: Set RPM range to display in Speed-Gear matrix, Help on: Top speed for 49 sprocket combinations, Help on: Change RPM and Gear in sprocket combinations matrix, Help on: Calculate RPM per gear at 50 Mph or Km/h in 3 setups, Help on: Calculate RPM per gear at particular speed in 3 setups, Help on: Calculate new wheel position based on existing chain or belt length, Help on: Calculate sprocket distance based on total chain or belt length and sprocket combination, Help on: Calculate number of chain links or belt teeth needed to compensate for lack of wheel adjustment, Help on: Chain Links Calculator for Generic Final Drive with new chain, Help on: Decide on whether to go smaller in front sprocket or bigger in rear sprocket, Help on: Factors contributing to Chain & Sprocket Wear, Help on: What is the optimal sprocket-chain combination, Help on: How to interpret the tooth-links and link-teeth tables, Help on: Various sprocket diameters explained, for chain and belt sprockets, Help on: Calculate sprocket pitch diameters, Help on: Adding a new bike by filling the AddBike form. And it crashes well too - I looped it in 5th doing 80mph and all the damage went to the rear lights, sidestand and handlebar cover. Your write up of the wide ratio gears is informative and has my hopes up.
On road the engine is in a low state of tune and pulls way beyond the 400cc would have you believe. A lot of joy can be gained from off-roading and the ride wont break its stride for ruts and divots. Throwing it into corners, it has the feel of a heavy mountain-bike, you can really move about on the narrow but comfy seat and you wont be daunted whilst riding it on its limits. It dosnt matter what everyone else runs, It's whats right for you, where are you going to be riding? Also the power mods that came on my bike mean that spending $40 on a 39T rear sprocket is totally doable. I sold the DRZ a few years ago, after owning it for about 1.5 years. ive been out on a 2009 drz400e and i tell you what other than the speed wobble, its such good fun, the knobbly tyres take some getting used but it just begs to be abused. I added bar end weights, which helped a little too. The second concern was that the gap between 1st and 2nd gears would be too large for serious dirt riding. Riding the trails is only a small part of what a DRZ 400 S can do and with its pillion pegs, mirrors, softer engine tune and full instruments, the S makes for a good commuter as well as a weekend green lane explorer. The best 39T deal currently available to my knowledge is the "JT Steel Rear Sprocket 39T Natural" with model number JTR808.39 1210-0688, currently on eBay here. Gives you speeds in different gears revs. Then a friend alerted me that Advanced Clutch Technology (ACT) had come out with a wide ratio transmission for the DRZ and the idea was planted in my brain build a true dual sport adventure out of the DRZ. I'm fine with burning a bit of oil, I just need to know to keep an eye on it. Bauer Media Group consists of: Bauer Consumer Media Ltd, Company number: 01176085, Bauer Radio Ltd, Company Number: 1394141 As my article stated, the wide ratio transmission and the big bore kit transform the DRZ. After installing the big bore kit I still average about 50 mpg. After examining the ACT info I decided they would likely work very well in an adventure bike and that this could be a really fun project. JAVASCRIPT IS DISABLED. In terms of accessories, well thats where it get interesting. For discussion of the Suzuki DRZ400 and Kawasaki KLX400, Press J to jump to the feed. The DRZ-400S is still fast, managing between 5-6 seconds 0-60 or so from stock, varying due to the rider's skill. If you place your order now we will call with the shipping rate. I know not of this KPH which you speak of here in the states. I can faithfully report that, for me and the type of riding I have done on the bike to date, the gap between 4th and 5th is not too large. Good value though, ideal for new riders. My riding consists of a mix of paved and non-paved roads and, as any DRZ owner will confirm, you just cant get the right sprockets on the DRZ to meet the need. You dont get much as standard on a DRZ and aside from the helpful seat-mounted tool kit (which by now will probably have had its contents pilfered) and a degree of adjustability in its suspension (the preload can be altered at both ends) thats your lot. 15/38, huh? But its got wide pegs so you can stand up. So if you went with the wide ratio gears now and found the stock engine to be lacking it wouldnt be difficult to add a big bore kit.
If you are looking for a bike that is the perfect companion for exploring your local green lanes on, look no further than a Suzuki DRZ400 S. Although there were a few DRZ 400 models before the S (and a DR350 before the 400), the original one only had a kickstart and while the E did have an electric starter and was road legal, it isnt as refined as the later S and is more a legalised enduro than a proper dual purpose trail bike like the S. Why is this important? why "S" - soooo misleading! Keep this site operational and become a site supporter. Would I find myself in situations where I was going too fast for 4th gear but too slow to be in 5th gear? There is nothing to be feared when it comes to basic maintenance on a DRZ and if you are at all bothered, there are loads of how-to videos online when it comes to the basics. If this is inadvisable for another reason (please explain) what other options exist to decrease RPMs at high speeds? Unique Hits Gav. I have stock gearing on my SM the only mods are Yosh can, 3x3,and and rejetted. The DRZ is a fine bike and the additions I have made to mine make it a significantly better dual sport adventure bike for the type of riding I do.
Erik Marquez of Marquez Racing is a well-known DRZ guy that happens to live about an hour from my place. I bought a 41 to swap out the stock 44. A forum community dedicated to SuperMoto owners and rally enthusiasts. So after looking in 5th gear @ 7600 rpm I am traveling 93 MPH right? I bought my 2006 DRZ400SM with the following power modifications already done to it: I'm seeing ~6000-7000rpms at 55-60mph (my tachometer has some signficant delay so there's some uncertainty there, it's due for an upgrade).
If you never managed a rolling stoppie in your life you will on this puppy, trust me on that one. I plan on doing this exact same thing this winter.. Did you also do the fcr39 carb? The DRZ-400S is the all-rounder. var scJsHost = "https://"; In all weathers without a single problem. Id rather buy one done correctly then try to get this done myself. My bike has the ACT gears, Athena 4mm BB & Stroker 4mm crank.20Ltr Safari tank.Dirtbag panniers,screen ect. If you really want an S and are looking at road riding, adding firmer springs to the forks will remove a lot of the dive while swapping the shocks spring (or investing in an aftermarket unit) will make the back end far more supportive for not a great deal of outlay. Ive had this bike for 2 1/2 years now and an excellent choice as a starter bike- it is so forgiving! The fact it has an electric start is a major bonus for anyone looking at trail riding and so is its reliability. The only real point to own a gixer was trackdays which happens like 2 or 3 times a year. I've never had any serious, mysterious issues. If I get around to cams and carb, I'll likely go back to 38 in the rear. You will always feel in control of the Suzuki which seems desperate to do what you ask of it within its limits. Brakes are quite soft, but result in an easy ride. I think it's worth the effort to Change to Wide Ratio Gearing, and besides, I LOVE to Modify Stuff ! When riding in more difficult terrain you will often find yourself either running too high RPMs in 1st gear or too low RPMs in 2nd gear. If you're after a dirtbike-style city commuter but aren't planning to go anywhere near a trail, you could also consider a Yamaha WR250X. The one thing I did notice during the initial break-in miles was that the gap between 4th and 5th gears is pretty large. will doing the 3x3 mod jetting and full yosh make up for the lose of power on the bottom :hmmm: KPH/1.6093=MPH so the conversion is easy if you know how to use a calculator. The problem with running a 13 tooth front sprocket is that it is a smaller diameter than the stock 14 tooth and will wear the swing arm chain guide near the swingarm/frame pivot bearing quicker and may cut into the swingarm if its not kept an eye on. Doesn't rev like a 2 stroke though-despite what some people say Has a few design/reliabilty issues which need curing first but then its bullet proof Much better bike than my old KMX200 visit www.thumpertalk.com/forum for tips from other owners. Found this Gearing calculator, works really well. Doesn't like to cruise much above 60mph on stock gearing. Rich, I was not aware had done this write up, very nice..and thank you for the kind words. UPDATE: The best solution I came to for this is a 39T rear sprocket. Best point is it runs very smoothly, with vibration coming in around 65mph. I will address this concern in detail during my discussion of the big bore kit later on. Only niggles are that you can't fit an alarm/immobiliser & gets a little bit light on the front around top end speed. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts. Currently you have JavaScript disabled. As a result, at 140kg's, the dizzy is neither the most powerful nor the lightest of crossers. Having said that I struggled to get the bike to wheelie and am ready to try something more road orientated and better on the motorway- it does feel a bit unstable at high speed- and you end up forcing your weight into the bike to keep it stable. 22,000km on the clock so it's been around the block a bit. Much appreciated. The two complaints I have with the DRZ are buzziness at highway speeds (my hands go numb after about 30 minutes of riding at 70 mph) and wind.
Strengths: Looks funky, completely reliable, handles beautifuly, seriously cheap to run, excellent build quality (I mean it), good adjustable suspenion, breaks have good power and feel, unintimidating to ride but tons and tons of fun. Put standard can on, & saw previous owner had drilled 4 large holes in airbox. document.write("
From a real world usage, the changes I made transform the DRZ. I just changed to 14/50 and find it much better especially in tight single trail and climbing. Conversely, if you gear it low for the dirt then the engine will really be screaming (running high RPMs) at highway speeds. Have you tried a 38T rear sprocket? Or would I find situations, such as long uphill sections, where I didnt have enough power to stay in 5th gear and would have to downshift to 4th to make it to the top? This is a very reliable bike and while the build quality may not be that amazing, the fact the little Suzuki simply refuses to give up is what makes it special.
Thanks for everyone's comments. The stock DRZ S model tries to split the difference between the E and SM models by running a 15/44 sprocket combo, resulting in gearing that is simultaneously a bit too high for tough dirt riding and too low for sustained highway speeds. Just that way home on Aroads or M-ways is a real pain. 15/47 for longer outback trips.Has been clocked at 160 KPH with this gearing. Why they aren't 6-speed is beyond me. Tons of good stuff in there, including a gearing spreadsheet. But I was never able to decrease the buzz to a level I was completely comfortable with. Use Google Custom Search to search the entire GC site. During my ride in Mexico I rode some fairly steep terrain (pictured above) and never felt like I was in a situation where 1st gear was too low but 2nd gear was too high. I've had mine to 139kph before the rev limiter cut in with the 13 tooth front sprocket.
Always inspect all the bearings (headstock, wheel, swingarm) as these are often badly worn, check the wheel rims for dents, the spokes for broken or rusty items, the exhaust for dents and holes and most importantly the radiator for leaks. "They are really solid built bikes and well worth theirweight in gold.". no matter how many CCs its got or how much stroke you put in it. The suspension is also built with off-road in mind and that means a wallowy ride (the weight of a pillion makes the shock almost hit the end of its travel) and the single two-piston front caliper is pretty weak in its performance. DUCMANs Where have you found your sweet spots?
Ok, I've changed the gearing spreadsheet a bit, made it accept multiple speed boxes (4/5/6sp) and to be selectable between kph and mph for those challenged by 20th century measurement units. It took a while to get my foot position right as to not foul the stand. When riding off-road the transmissions narrow gear ratios mean that you can always find the right gear for the conditions you are riding in and your skill level.
I will never deal with those greedy bastards again . I decided to buy a DRZ, add the ACT wide ratio transmission and a big bore kit, and build the bike Suzuki should already be making. I think my current gearing is stock. Ideally, you want you gearing on an SM (for a lot of the street riders) to be such that the bike tops out at the HP peak, that is the fastest it will go based on the current state of the engine. Mine is 12 years old. With the new ACT wide ratio gears you are shifting into 5th about 60 mph and are able to run 80 mph at significantly lower RPMs and engine vibration. Where would you recommend ordering a 38T rear from? It has all the settings in the data base for the 400 E. I have a SM with a 150/60-17 rear tyre (2.733) Final reduction ratio. I've resently gone from a 14 to a 13 and don't particularly like it. When I first got my bike, the previous owner had installed a 38 tooth rear with the 15 still up front. :hmmm: With 15/41 in 5th your RPM is almost exactly 100 x your speed in MPH. I haven't heard of people changing just 2 teeth in the back, always up 3 or down 3. This reason, more than any other, kept the DRZ off my list of possible dual sport adventure bikes. The AFR chart suggests it needs a rejet, which I suspected of course. Is speedometer effected by sprocket and tire changes? Its not uncommon for a theoretical good idea to end up disappointing in reality after the build But alas, that just gives way for more building..lol The ergos are perfect for city commuting and the bike feels almost weightless. Carburettor model. Bad points.. that seat. I had to do a freeway transport for 30ks recently (too late gettting out of bed to make a meeting point via the back roads) and it wasn't pleasant but it was possible. See application chart for applicable models. Currently restricted to 33bhp so haven't bothered with any mods until that comes off next year. It reaaly is not. Company Number: LP003328 Registered Office: Academic House, 24-28 Oval Road, London, NW1 7DT. It should be the same for the SM as for the E as the primary drive ratio and gear ratios should be the same. Of course, thats just my opinion. This will add 2-3bhp all the way through the rev range, with much improved throttle response. With the bike upright, have a good look down the length of the bike from the rear to see if the bars are straight, check the levers havent been bent and then forced straight again and ensure all the electrics work as they can be a weak point. 2005 - 2022 If you accept the DRZ is a 60mph maximum bike you wont be disappointed. I do SFA tar work so I don't mind the lower gearing. Date: I've also ran 15/39 which is super smooth at 75mph, probably less than 7k rpm iirc. I've been riding sportbikes for 6 years, mainly gsx-r's, which were all mighty great bikes but not in the environment I was spending most of my time. It increases the max speed of each gear, without having to do any case-saver or chain guard grinding/modifications, and allows you to keep the stock chain (remove one more tooth to a 38T sprocket and you need to shorten your chain, probably to 109 or 108 links (unconfirmed, just my guess).
Excellent question.
(15-41 std. So my questions are: Out of the 2 sprockets on the drive-chain, the counter-sprocket is the front one directly driven by the motor, correct? So it was time for some drastic decisions. But not too much. Would i see a big improvement if i kept the stock carb and did not get the big bore? As you can see in the first chart above, if you are running 15/44 sprockets then with the ACT gears you are just shifting into 5th gear at about the same speed where you maxed out the stock DRZ in 5th gear. Dave. I want to be able to go 65-70mph relatively comfortably and not feel like I'm straining the shit out of the bike. Adjust calculated to actual Tire circumference. Driven USA MX Rear Sprocket 520 Suzuki DRZ400 & DRZ400SM (00-08), Shopping cart software by: Cynch Medical Device Repair Software. Will eventually go 14/49 when I find a decent bike shop workshop dont want too wear the swingarm guides. And if you had enough on the street just jump off the tarmac and make your way through that lawn or park. As an X/C it is brilliant: tarmac/off-road/tarmac/off-road is where this bike truely excelles. Gixer wouldnt be even rideable after this one. And you need to plan your petrol stops well when riding in the middle of nowhere! I don't know how, after this long, it is still developing 33bhp and 25lb-ft of torque, even taking into account the drop from manufacturer's stated at crank. However all of this is to be expected from an enduro bike and if you want more road performance, there is an alternative. Its an affordable option to a german dual sport. And the SM fulfils the task admirably. Have you used the wider gears on the stock engine? If I were to ever own a DRZ again, I would definitely make those two mods again. light, powerful, responsive, great ("X/C") suspension.
Help on: Final Drive Ratio graph (Bike independant). Here is a nice spreadsheet with the gear ratios entered. simply change the tire size to waht you use. How heavy are you?
The ACT gears lowered the RPMs at highway speed, which helped reduce the buzz. I did not use the wide ratio gears on a stock engine.
What can you say about this bike that the sales figures don't already tell you? Some are only applicable to fairly serious off-roaders. 75 is not very comfortable on my DRZ 400 E You need to be a member in order to leave a comment. Standard Dunlops are ok, but not great - I wouldnt buy them again. "statcounter.com/counter/counter.js'>"); Explains what the Gearing Commander can be used for, Help on: Select your bike from presets and load default data, Help on: Initial Loading of Gearing Data Explained, Help on: Change settings to reflect Current setup, Help on: Change settings to considered Custom setup, Help on: Enter data for a bike NOT in the presets, Help on: Save changed settings for future loading, Help on: Load previously saved personal settings, Help on: Report a gearing Error in the GC database, Help on: Set RPM range to display in Speed-Gear matrix, Help on: Top speed for 49 sprocket combinations, Help on: Change RPM and Gear in sprocket combinations matrix, Help on: Calculate RPM per gear at 50 Mph or Km/h in 3 setups, Help on: Calculate RPM per gear at particular speed in 3 setups, Help on: Calculate new wheel position based on existing chain or belt length, Help on: Calculate sprocket distance based on total chain or belt length and sprocket combination, Help on: Calculate number of chain links or belt teeth needed to compensate for lack of wheel adjustment, Help on: Chain Links Calculator for Generic Final Drive with new chain, Help on: Decide on whether to go smaller in front sprocket or bigger in rear sprocket, Help on: Factors contributing to Chain & Sprocket Wear, Help on: What is the optimal sprocket-chain combination, Help on: How to interpret the tooth-links and link-teeth tables, Help on: Various sprocket diameters explained, for chain and belt sprockets, Help on: Calculate sprocket pitch diameters, Help on: Adding a new bike by filling the AddBike form. And it crashes well too - I looped it in 5th doing 80mph and all the damage went to the rear lights, sidestand and handlebar cover. Your write up of the wide ratio gears is informative and has my hopes up.
On road the engine is in a low state of tune and pulls way beyond the 400cc would have you believe. A lot of joy can be gained from off-roading and the ride wont break its stride for ruts and divots. Throwing it into corners, it has the feel of a heavy mountain-bike, you can really move about on the narrow but comfy seat and you wont be daunted whilst riding it on its limits. It dosnt matter what everyone else runs, It's whats right for you, where are you going to be riding? Also the power mods that came on my bike mean that spending $40 on a 39T rear sprocket is totally doable. I sold the DRZ a few years ago, after owning it for about 1.5 years. ive been out on a 2009 drz400e and i tell you what other than the speed wobble, its such good fun, the knobbly tyres take some getting used but it just begs to be abused. I added bar end weights, which helped a little too. The second concern was that the gap between 1st and 2nd gears would be too large for serious dirt riding. Riding the trails is only a small part of what a DRZ 400 S can do and with its pillion pegs, mirrors, softer engine tune and full instruments, the S makes for a good commuter as well as a weekend green lane explorer. The best 39T deal currently available to my knowledge is the "JT Steel Rear Sprocket 39T Natural" with model number JTR808.39 1210-0688, currently on eBay here. Gives you speeds in different gears revs. Then a friend alerted me that Advanced Clutch Technology (ACT) had come out with a wide ratio transmission for the DRZ and the idea was planted in my brain build a true dual sport adventure out of the DRZ. I'm fine with burning a bit of oil, I just need to know to keep an eye on it. Bauer Media Group consists of: Bauer Consumer Media Ltd, Company number: 01176085, Bauer Radio Ltd, Company Number: 1394141 As my article stated, the wide ratio transmission and the big bore kit transform the DRZ. After installing the big bore kit I still average about 50 mpg. After examining the ACT info I decided they would likely work very well in an adventure bike and that this could be a really fun project. JAVASCRIPT IS DISABLED. In terms of accessories, well thats where it get interesting. For discussion of the Suzuki DRZ400 and Kawasaki KLX400, Press J to jump to the feed. The DRZ-400S is still fast, managing between 5-6 seconds 0-60 or so from stock, varying due to the rider's skill. If you place your order now we will call with the shipping rate. I know not of this KPH which you speak of here in the states. I can faithfully report that, for me and the type of riding I have done on the bike to date, the gap between 4th and 5th is not too large. Good value though, ideal for new riders. My riding consists of a mix of paved and non-paved roads and, as any DRZ owner will confirm, you just cant get the right sprockets on the DRZ to meet the need. You dont get much as standard on a DRZ and aside from the helpful seat-mounted tool kit (which by now will probably have had its contents pilfered) and a degree of adjustability in its suspension (the preload can be altered at both ends) thats your lot. 15/38, huh? But its got wide pegs so you can stand up. So if you went with the wide ratio gears now and found the stock engine to be lacking it wouldnt be difficult to add a big bore kit.